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JBL D130, D130F & D140, D140F Reconing Instructions


Simple step by step instructions for installing the SSR Preassembled Recone Kits.
This instruction page is for the JBL D130, D140 and similar recone kits sold by Sound Speaker Repair.
Click on each picture for a larger image.


Take a utility knife and cut around the surround. Next fold back the cone and cut through the spider and lead wires.
Pull out the old assembly and throw away.
Keep debris out of the voice coil gap. Cover the voice coil gap with masking tape.
Unsolder the old lead wires from the wire terminals. Make sure that the wire hole
                                                     is free from solder.

Cut under the gasket all the way around and discard. Remove as much of the gasket and glue as possible.
Do the same with the spider.
 


Clean the frame of all glue. You can use a putty knife and some type of solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner to soften up the old adhesive.
We like to use a small angle grinder with a medium grit scotch-bright pad. This does a very good and fast job of the cleanup.


Remove the tape covering the voice coil gap. Cut a slice of business card or similar the width of your masking tape. Fold the tape over the strip of card sticky out. Wipe the tape back and forth on the palm of your hand a few times so its not as sticky. Or take a piece of masking tape about 1 1/2-in long and fold it into a triangle sticky side out. Insert the tape and card in the voice coil gap and run it around to remove all debris from the gap. Look in the gap with a flashlight, make sure no debris is left in the gap.
Test fit you recone kit with the shim in place before applying glue.
Apply a bead of glue to the spider and surround mounting surface. Insert the voice coil centering shim into the gap.


Let the glue sit and tack for five minutes.
Position the frame so that the wire terminals are pointing at you.
Insert the recone kit so that the centering shim slides throw the voice coil. Make sure the lead wires are lined up with the wire terminals.
Run some sort of smooth item around the surround so its makes good contact with the glue and frame. A dissembled clothespin works well for this. Use fingers to press down the spider to the frame.
Be careful not to push the kit further to one side than the other. Let the glue dry overnight.


Remove the centering shim and attach the gaskets. For a clean look, apply the glue to the outer edge of the gaskets themselves.
Turn the speaker over and let the gasket glue dry for an hour. The weight of the speaker will keep the gaskets in place wile the glue dries.


Apply a bead of glue around the voice coil and the cone.
Make a loop sticky side out with your masking tape and attached to the top of the dust cap to make a handle
. Place the new dust cap into the glue. Leave the tape on the dust cap until the glue has dried. You may also need to put a weight on the dust cap to keep it down in the glue. An upside down shot glass works well for this.
 


Solder the lead wires to the wire terminals leaving enough slack to allow the wires to move with the cone but not touching the cone or the frame.

 


Now you're finished and your speaker looks like this.


 
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