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Simple step by step instructions
for installing the SSR Preassembled Recone Kits.
This instruction page is for the JBL D130, D140 and similar recone kits sold by Sound
Speaker Repair.
Click on each picture for a larger image.
  Take
a utility knife and cut around the surround. Next fold back the cone
and cut through the spider and lead wires.
Pull out the old assembly and throw away.
Keep debris out of the voice coil gap. Cover the voice coil gap with
masking tape.
Unsolder the old lead wires from the wire terminals. Make sure that the
wire hole
is free from solder.
Cut under the gasket all the way around
and discard. Remove as much of the gasket and glue as possible.
Do the same with the spider.
 Clean
the frame of all glue. You can use a putty knife and some type of
solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner to soften up the old adhesive.
We like to use a small angle grinder with a medium grit scotch-bright
pad. This does a very good and fast job of the cleanup.
Remove the tape covering the voice coil gap.
Cut a slice of business card or similar the width of your masking tape.
Fold the tape over the strip of card sticky out. Wipe the tape back and
forth on the palm of your hand a few times so its not as sticky. Or take
a piece of masking tape about 1 1/2-in long and fold it into a triangle
sticky side out. Insert
the tape and card in the voice coil gap and run it around to remove all
debris from the gap. Look in the gap with a flashlight, make sure no
debris is left in the gap.
Test fit you recone kit with the shim in place before applying glue.
Apply a bead of glue to the spider and surround mounting surface. Insert
the voice coil centering shim into the gap.
 
Let the glue sit and tack for five
minutes.
Position the frame so that the wire terminals are pointing at you.
Insert the recone kit so that the centering shim slides throw the voice
coil. Make sure the lead wires are lined up with the wire terminals.
Run some sort of smooth item around the surround so its makes good
contact with the glue and frame. A dissembled clothespin works well for
this. Use fingers to press down the spider to the frame.
Be careful not to push the kit further to one side than the other. Let
the glue dry overnight.
Remove the centering shim and attach the
gaskets. For a clean look, apply the glue to the outer edge of the
gaskets themselves.
Turn the speaker over and let the gasket glue dry for an hour. The
weight of the speaker will keep the gaskets in place wile the glue
dries.
 Apply
a bead of glue around the voice coil and the cone.
Make a loop sticky side out with your masking tape and attached to the
top of the dust cap to make a handle. Place
the new dust cap into the glue. Leave the tape on the dust cap
until the glue has dried. You may also need to put a weight on
the dust cap to keep it down in the glue. An upside down shot
glass works well for this.
 Solder
the lead wires to the wire terminals leaving enough slack to allow the
wires to move with the cone but not touching the cone or the frame.
 Now
you're finished and your speaker looks like this. |
