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Simple step by step instructions for installing
the Pro Parts preassembled recone kit into your JBL 2241, 2226, and 2206
speaker frame.
Use these same instructions for installing the Electro Voice kit and other Pro Parts recone kits sold by Sound Speaker Repair.
Click on each picture for a larger image.
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 Tools you may need include, soldering iron and solder, utility knife, putty knife, compressed air, masking tape, safety glasses. The angle grinder with a surface prep disk is optional but does make the job a lot faster.
We have found that the best masking tape is the Ace Hardware
General Use Masking Tape, item number 12708 This tape has just the right amount
of stickiness and thickness. |
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   Use
a utility knife to cut around the surround. Next fold back the cone
and de-solder the lead wires from the terminals. Make sure that you
remove the solder from the holes in the terminals.
Cut around the spider and remove the assembly.
Keep all debris out of the voice coil gap. Cover the voice coil gap with
masking tape. |
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Cut the gaskets away from the frame. Be
careful not to damage the gaskets, you may want to reuse them.
Use a putty knife to remove the what remains of the spider and
surround.
You can use a solvent like acetone to soften the adhesive and scrape
with the putty knife. |
 Using
the angle grinder here will save you a tremendous amount of
time. |
 
After removing all debris, remove the
masking tape from the gap. We find it useful to use compressed air to
blow out any debris that is in the gap. This is very useful for that
voice coil that has come apart in the gap. Blowing compressed air can
help to remove the old coil.
Now cut a piece of business card or similar cardstock to the width of your masking
tape. Fold the tape over the strip of card, sticky side out. Insert the tape
and card in the voice coil gap and run it around to remove all debris
from the gap. Look in the gap with a flashlight, make sure no debris is
left in the gap. It is very important that no debris remains in the gap. |
  Test fit your recone kit with the
centering shims in place before applying glue. This is the time
to make sure every thing fits correctly, before
applying the glue.
After testing fitting the kit, apply a bead of glue to the spider and surround mounting surface. Let
the glue sit and tack for five minutes.
Position the frame so that the wire terminals are pointing at
you and set the kit into place making sure that the lead wires
line up with the terminals.
Insert the centering shims.
Run some sort of smooth item around the surround so its makes good
contact with the glue and frame (a dissembled clothespin works well for
this). Use fingers to press the spider onto the frame. Be careful not
to push the kit further to one side than the other. Let the glue
dry for 8 hours. |
 Solder the
lead wires to the terminals. It is not necessary to insert the
wires into the holes but in either case, make sure you have a
good solder joint.
Now that the glue has dried, this is the best time to test the
repair and make sure everything has been aligned correctly.
Remove the centering shims.
Test your speaker. Listen for any excessive rubbing or ticking.
In the shop we use a sound generator run through a power
amplifier. With this setup we can do a full frequency sweep of
the speaker. You can also use a test tone CD or music. |
  To
install the dust cap, first dry fit the dust cap and trace
around it with a pencil. This will show you where you need to
put the bead of glue. Place a liberal amount of glue directly on
the pencil line. |
   Make
a handle for your dust cap with a piece of masking tape about
1-in long. Loop it together sticky side out. Attach it to the
center of the dust cap and lower it into the glue. If you think
you need more glue on the dust cap, you can place a small bead
between the cone and the dust cap as shown. Now place a weight
on the dust cap to keep in down into the glue. Do not use too
heavy of a weight. You do not want to over stress the spider.
Use your best judgment. Let the glue dry for a few hours and you
are finished. |
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